After two weeks, my trip to Newfoundland was drawing to a close. On the morning of my final full day, I set sail out of Bay Bulls on a puffin and whale-watching tour with Gatherall’s. My Newfound friend Isabelle had recommended this company, as they also include the option to be screeched in as part of the tour, an essential experience I was yet to have. And I was running out of time.
I could not have asked for better conditions on the day, with clear blue skies and smooth seas. As we approached the picturesque Witless Bay Ecological Reserve, puffins could be seen at a distance bobbing on the water, flying just above the surface (yes, flying) and nestled in the grassy nooks of the islands in their hundreds. We were also treated to a sighting of humpback whales.
I decided not to have my screech-in with Gatheralls, as their ceremony does not include kissing a cod or eating bologna (something to keep in mind when deciding where to have your screech-in), but it does include kissing a plush puffin’s rear end, wearing the Sou’wester during the recitation and the drinking of the shot of Screech rum. I witnessed the ceremony of another guest, which was highly entertaining.
I was back in Downtown St. John’s by the early afternoon, and decided to squeeze in a visit to Quidi Vidi (pronounced as Kitty Vitty or Quada Vida, depending on who you ask) a quaint fishing village located in the east end of the city. I walked there in half an hour, but there is a bus that runs from Downtown.
There, idyllic cottages dotted the roadside to the wharf lined with colourful fishing stages, a glimpse into the quintessential island outports of Newfoundland & Labrador.
My Screech-In
Along with eating a Jigg’s Dinner, getting screeched-in is an essential experience when visiting Newfoundland and Labrador. I spent my last evening in St. John’s getting screeched in at Christian’s Pub by Skipper Lukie.
A Screech-In is a a satirical tribute to the history of Newfoundland and Labrador, from a time when the region exchanged salted codfish, its once-primary export, for the West Indiesā rum. The Screech-In ceremony is performed on non-Newfoundlanders (known to Newfoundlanders as a ‘come from away’ or ‘mainlander’) involving a shot of Screech Jamaican rum, a short recitation, the eating of bologna and the kissing of a codfish.
Screech Rum
To begin the ceremony, Skipper Lukie passed around shots of Screech rum. The Jamaican spirit that was eventually to be known as Screech was a mainstay of the traditional Newfoundland diet. At this time in history, salt fish was being shipped to the West Indies in exchange for rum. This resulted in fish becoming the national dish for Jamaicans and rum becoming the traditional drink for Newfoundlanders.
The Creed
We then recited the creed. Skipper Lukie, a Newfoundlander and our Master of Ceremonies, first asked us if we would like to become Newfoundlanders. We replied in unison with a hefty ‘yes bāy!’.
Next Skipper Lukie asked us ‘Is ye a screecher?’ and taught us the correct reply ‘Deed I is, me olā cock! And long may yer big jib draw!’
The creed goes like this:
‘From the waters of the Avalon, to the shores of Labrador, We’ve always stuck together, with a Rant and a Roar. To those who’ve never been, soon they’ll understand, From coast to coast, we raise a toast, We love thee Newfoundland!’
Bologna
After we screechers had successfully recited the creed, Skipper Lukie served up small taster size portions of bologna. For reasons that are difficult to trace, bologna has always been a wildly popular meat in Newfoundland, often referred to as Newfie steaks.
Kissing a Codfish
Next Skipper Lukie produced a frozen cod, and it was time for the fish kiss, a show an appreciation for the fish that was the economic engine of the area for centuries.
I chatted to a man called Tony about our travels after this day, and then headed off to my second Haunted Hike- Sinners and Spirits.
One Last Haunted Hike
Freshly screeched-in, I set out on my last tourism activity- the St. John’s Haunted Hike Sinners and Spirits Ghost Tour, which explores the criminal underworld of St. Johnās and its paranormal legacy.
I spent Tuesday soaking up the 100-year old townhouse where I had spent the last six days. Perched on the hill behind the City of St. John’s, the house was a museum in and of itself, dotted with collectible items, vintage oddities, antiques, maps, and books. I wandered from room to room, capturing pictures of items that were only just now appearing to me. I sat in the living room with a cup of tea and crammed in some more reading of Strange Terrain, the PhD project of folklorist Barbara Rieti about the fairy world of Newfoundland.
I was not ready to leave the house. I felt like I could spend so much time sitting in the living room drinking tea, sitting at the desk in my room writing. I felt like I had only just scratched the surface of folklore research in Newfoundland, and that I needed more time. The thought of leaving was actually breaking my heart. I hoped I would make it back to Newfoundland one day, and that Jody and Nicole would still be welcoming in guests to their beautiful home.
If you would like to stay here, below you can find Jody and Nicole’s listing on Airbnb. I would travel back to St. John’s just to stay here:
King Sized bed in beautiful room
Kate Kelsen 